Places to Eat in Loei

For a visitor spending just a few evenings in Loei, the best place to head to is the night market that becomes the centre point of Loei street dining every night (5.00pm – 10.00). It is located right in the city centre close to the river. Along with the usual chicken skewers and noodle soups you’ll find a lot of regional specialties typical of the Isaan cuisine; try the papaya salad in its Lao version (som tam lao) with a small bamboo basket of sticky rice, but be prepared to feel your mouth in flames because of the spiciness. Practice your Thai asking pet nit noi which means ‘a little bit spicy’. Lab moo (minced pork salad) and koh moo yang (grilled pork neck) are some of the must try dishes for meat lovers. There are no English signs or menus, and none of the vendor speaks enough English to explain to you what they’re selling, so your only option is to trust your eyes and your nose. Be careful though, because those fried things that you can’t quite recognize more than likely are snails, larva or some sort of insects; if you can get over the idea of putting them your mouth, they’re actually quite good and crunchy; after all a deep fried insect doesn’t taste much different from any other kind of deep fried food. Everything is extremely cheap with most of the dishes coming for as low as THB30.

Local Food

Several restaurants in the city centre serve a mix of Thai cuisine and Isaan specialties. The more authentic ones have no English names – just walk around and follow your nose again; it is the best strategy in Loei. As a rule of thumb stop for lunch or dinner where there’s a lot of local people; the setting can be not too appealing, with nothing more than plastic chairs and small plastic tables but the food will be great.

For an easier experience with English menu and English speaking staff without giving up to the quality of the food Idea Coffee is located on Chum Sai Road close to the clock tower. Along with the most common Thai dishes (the offer is quite limited), it’s a good place for a steak and fries. Slightly overpriced compared to other places, the higher cost is justified by the nice setting, air-con and free Wi-Fi.

Restaurants

For a great dining experience you’ll have to head out of downtown. Lanchang Garden Bar and Restaurant (777 Moo 9, Maliwan Rd.) is located near the bus station – if you have no transport rely on a tuk-tuk to get there. The place is known as one of the best restaurants in town and every tuk-tuk driver will know where it is for sure. The ambience is beautiful with a big garden where you can have your dinner in a romantic and peaceful atmosphere; if you prefer an air-conditioned room without being bothered by mosquitos, the inside section offers relaxed and pleasant setting. The menu is quite vast with a prevalence of Isaan influenced dishes and some freshwater fish options. A quite impressive wine and spirits list makes this place a good spot to hang out after dinner for a couple of drinks; live music is usually on every night. Expect to pay around THB100 for a main course.

There’s very limited choice of Western food and you’ll mainly have to rely on few restaurants in guesthouses and hotels offering an average pizza and not so exceptional pasta. But if you are missing a good burger, Loei’s American Burger (42 Khiri Rat 3, Kut Pong) is definitely worth the 5-minute driving.